Dissecting the Takstar Pro 80

I started off by removing the pads, I did it by gently inserting a couple of fingers behond the padding and pulling carefully. Since we want to be able to get thm back on, do exercise caution so you do not ruin anything.

Now the two screws holding the headband adjustment clip was removed.

This exposed the mechanism for adjusting the headband and allowed med to pull out the "cup" and "swiwel arm".

So, really, this plastic clip is all that is holding the "arm" in the right position? Yes, and although the plastic might look flimsy as hell I find the tactile feedback when adjusting the length of the arm to be BETTER than whatever solution has been implemented in my Beyerdynamic T1's since they seem to share come design commonalities in the way the adjustment works (though I have not gutted my T1's to see exactly HOW the engineers at Beyerdynamic has gotten around this... yet).

I unscrewed the four screws to remove the pad holder ring.

I could now remove the ring and got access to the driver.

With a small screwdriver I gently lifted the driver from the cup.

Now was a good time to mark down which wires lead where for the assembly before cutting the wires.

I could now slide the metal band out of the "pleather" padding.

...and this is what it looks like.
Some people with big heads have bent this and got a better fit! I can just about fit the phones on my ears so I did nothing.

This is the left cup disassembled. Again, it might be a good idea to note what wires go where.
Please note that Takstar chose a rather odd color scheme, at least for my pair... I know of at least one guy messing up his mod by not checking the wiring, but instead going with his intuition telling him that red must carry signal for the right side and black must be "ground". I isn't!
If in doubt, always check with your DMM which wires come from what part of the jack. If unsure about the layout of a "TRS" jack, read up on it and come back!

So, this is the inside of the cup... Two felt pieces are glued to the cup and a piece of "White-ish" plastic covers a centre hole.

I wanted to remove the back plate too, this I did by first straightening the bent metal from the metal shell marked with the green rings. Then I gently pushed the plastic snap locks marked by the red rings out and it came out.

The metal shell could now be pushed out of the plastic ring.

I removed the plastic plate and the rubber grommets for the wiring as well.
So, finally all was torn apart and I was ready to start modding...